Just as yesterday’s Birka coat, the wrap-over coat is a garment that was used both during the Vendel period and the Viking age. From the Vendel period we know it through gold-foil figures, ‘guldgubbar’ depicting men. The coat is often interpreted as a riding coat or a warrior jacket because we have never seen it on any gold-foil figure where the man is seen together with a woman. It is also interesting that it is not found on any gold-foil figures from Norway, even if it is quite common in Sweden and Denmark.

We also know that the wrap-over coat continued in use during the Viking age because large fragments of the typical diagonal front piece with wide trimmings have been found in Hedeby. There the fabric was in 2/2 diagonal twill and the trimmings were made of fake fur, that is. wool fabric which had been given a long pile, maybe with the help of card thistles. The wrap-over coat in Hedeby was also lined with wool fabric. Remains of the lining is still attached to the inside.

Just as with the Birka coat we don’t know if it had straight sleeves with sleeve gussets or fitted sleeves, but we can suppose that at least the early wrap-over coats had straight sleeves. The small slit at the sides of the drawing is based on most well-preserved front piece from Hedeby. It makes it easer to move in the garment and also makes it more suitable as a riding coat.

The recreated wrap-over coat to the left has real fur trimmings. My thought was that if they used fake fur then it is also possible that more luxurious coat had real fur. It is important that the trimmings are made in a material with enough sturdiness so that the front pieces get a good stability.

The photo is taken by Iduna Pertoft Sundarp.

Your can buy pattern for wrap-over coat here: Outdoor Clothing or here: Scandinavian Vendel Period Clothing.